Big Run Bog, Part 2

Big Run Bog

 

After driving through the town of Thomas, WV, we took a forest road leading up to he Olson Observation Tower. I'd read that originally Big Run Bog was called the Olson Bog, so again, a trail from the tower to the bog was possible. The gravel road was in better condition than the road at Dolly Sods, as it climbed up steadily through the dense forest I could catch glimpses through the trees of the drop down to the valley. We were probably at around 3500 feet altitude.

The only trail near the Olson Tower was the Allegheny Trail, traversing  thickets of Rhododendrons (R. maximum I presume, from the large leaves.) that didn't seem very promising, so we turned around and tried another road--the sign indicated this was the road to Big Run Falls. About a mile or two in, the road became impassable--huge deep pools of water and rocks, and we were afraid we'd get the car stuck there. It was tough turning around with so little room, with ditches dropping off to either side, but my friend managed to do it. 

Path in the woods led to the bog

We debated whether to try walking up the road to the falls, but it was getting to be late afternoon, and we wanted to be able to get home before dark, so we backtracked down to the main road. Along the way, my friend decided to stop at a one-car pullout to take a leak in the woods. Coming back she said, "There's a trail down there, and I can see open space behind those trees. Could that be where the bog is?" It was worth a look, so I got out and followed her down the path. 

Lovely, rich woods-- a clump of tiny golden mushrooms at the base of a tree caught my eye. Likely very young honey mushrooms

Mushrooms at the base of a tree

The path was short and opened up to a wide grassy expanse--Eureka! Here was what we'd been looking for: Big Run Bog!

Cotton grass in Big Run Bog

There was no boardwalk, and the ground was very soggy--we sank a few inches with each footstep, trying not to get in above our ankles. The ground was carpeted with cranberries laden with fruit and purple pitcher plants. Ferns in their autumn gold and clumps of Rhododendrons dotted the expanse. Who knew that Rhododendrons could live with wet feet? I'd always thought they needed good drainage, but they seemed to be flourishing here.

Cranberries

Purple Pitcher plants, cranberries, and wild strawberries

We didn't go very far into the bog, although we could guess from the tree line at the horizon that a stream or body of water must run somewhere along the farther edge. The ground was so squishy, we settled for taking photos and picking some of the cranberries. The plant diversity here was not as profuse as at the wetlands, though I'm sure we would have identified more had we continued farther in. I'd wanted to see some of the Bottlebrush Gentians that are reported to be found here, but there were none where we were.

Clump of purple pitchers with one old flowering stalk

Ferns turning gold

Details of the Pitcher plants

Time was marching on, so we turned around and headed back to Thomas. There was an interesting row of small stores along the road, and we stopped to see if there was someplace we could get some hot tea, but only one store was open, and it was not a cafe. It had some charming seasonal decorations with lots of pumpkins--I couldn't resist taking a few shots.

Store front in Thomas, WV

Detail of the fall decorations.

The drive back was uneventful, except for some rain. What a way to spend one's birthday, another great adventure in wild, wonderful West Virginia! Can't wait to get back there again soon.

The Cranesville Swamp, Part 2

Me at the Cranesville Swamp.

 

The Cranesville Swamp consists of a flat expanse surrounded by low hills, populated by trees here and there. A convenient boardwalk allows one to walk without interfering with the vegetation or sinking into the bog, though there were some places farther along submerged under several inches of water. I believe one would call it technically a fen, as the water does flow, albeit very slowly, through the terrain.

 

Skunk cabbage among hillocks of mosses

 

We'd hoped to see the pitcher plants that grew here that we'd read about, and perhaps some of the sundews, but the skunk cabbage had overgrown everything so much that any pitcher plants and sundews were totally obscured. There were plenty of large Cranberry bushes (Vaccinium macrocarpon) with flower buds (or berries?) on them, their leaves still showing red. The name seems deceptive, these plants grew very low in height.

 

 

 

Large Cranberries (Vaccinium macrocarpon)

 

 

The lowbush and highbush blueberries were a bit taller, but it was hard to distinguish between the two--I'm not sure I have these correctly identified, but it seemed the flowers of the lowbush were paler, as its botanical name indicates, and the highbush blueberry redder.

 

 

 

Lowbush Blueberry (Vaccinium pallidum) 

 

Highbush Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum)

 

As we ambled along the boardwalk some Viburnums in bloom were visible, perhaps wild raisin, (Viburnum cassinoides), or highbush cranberry (Viburnum edulis), hard for me--a non-botanist--to tell. I wish I'd been able to go on the earlier Wildflower Festival walk with some experts, to learn the differences.

 

Viburnum cassinoides?

 

The array of low-growing plants along the boardwalk was fascinating, the tiny berries of Wintergreen, the unfurling fiddleheads of ferns (Bracken?)  and fruiting mosses were just lovely.

 

Low growth along the boardwalk

 

Mosses with spore heads

At the north end of the boardwalk, a few tall tamarack trees (Larix laricina), also known as the American larch, could be seen, only one had rather skimpy foliage. Here is the southernmost occurrence of this deciduous conifer more typical of northern latitudes such as Canada and the upper midwest, and they didn't seem to be prospering. I understand there are a number of insects that can damage these trees, it seemed the few here could use some help.

  

 

Tamarack trees (Larix laricina)

The plants in this setting were so beautiful to my eye, that I'd like to try a painting depicting several of them in their environment later on.

 

 

Fern fronds unfurling

 

Small trees or shrubs

Drooping sedge (Carex crinita)

Maleberry (Lyonia ligustrina)

Towards the northern end the boardwalk was submerged in several inches of water, and when we re-entered the woods, the ground there was so soggy one had to tread with care. The recent rains had really waterlogged this part of the preserve and we were really glad we had waterproof boots!

 

Skunk cabbage among the ferns and cranberries

 

I'd love to visit the Cranesville Swamp again at another time of the year, like in the fall, to observe how the landscape changes with the seasons. I imagine it would be covered in the bloom of goldenrods and native asters, ripe berries, and some colorful foliage in the background... perhaps this coming fall.

The Cranesville Swamp, Part 1

 

Entering the Cranesville Swamp

Towards the end of a very rainy period in late May, a friend and I decided to visit the Cranesville Swamp. We'd  missed the walk in early May during the West Virginia Wildflower Festival, and wanted to see this unusual botanical site. Straddling the edge of western Maryland and upper WV, this site is considered botanically unique because it's a "frost pocket", where the cold mountain air collects, making for a much colder environment than its latitude would indicate. The poorly-draining soil has created a classic high-altitude bog that contains some very unusual plants.

 

Hemlock forest

 

The woods leading up to the boardwalk of the bog were lush--mostly tall hemlocks and white pine, with remnants of a red spruce forest that was heavily logged up until the 1950's. Today, hundreds of red spruce saplings have been planted by the Nature Conservancy, who owns the site, in an effort to restore the original forest.

 

Large specimen of red spruce.

 

There are several varieties of club mosses found in this forest: ground cedar (Lycopodium digitatum), Tree clubmoss ( Lycopodium obscurum), which we photographed--the two others we probably saw, but could not identify.

 

Tree Club Moss (Lycopodium obscurum) with wild strawberry

Ground cedar (Lycopodium digitatum)

 

Patches of tiny Bluets bloomed among the wild strawberries covering the ground, and White Beakrush here and there.

 

 

 

Bluets (Houstonia caerulea) and wild strawberries

 

White Beakrush (Rhynchospora alba)

 

 

 Cinnamon ferns abounded in the moist forest, with lady ferns and Oak ferns.

 

 

 

Cinnamon ferns (Osmunda cinnamomea)

 

Oak ferns (Gymnocarpium dryopteris) among club mosses

 

Butterfly among ferns

 

After a short walk through the forest, the trees cleared out and we were out in the open, arriving at the Cranesville Swamp. 

End of Part 1, see next post for Part 2.

 

 

Hiking on Dolly Sods, Part 1

The view east from Dolly Sods Road Overlook

My friend wanted to hike on Dolly Sods Wilderness in West Virginia. I remembered that Herb and I had done a hike on the Wilderness Trail and part of the Rorhbaugh Trail up to the spot where the rock cliffs are located, about a decade ago. I had always wanted to see the rest of the Rorhbaugh Trail, so I suggested we start our hike on the Wilderness Trail and continue to the end of the Rohrbaugh Trail, a total of about 5.2 miles according to my trail map. We each drove our own car so that we could leave one car at the Rorhbaugh Trailhead and ride together in the other to our starting point at the Wildlife Trailhead. This would save us a long walk back.

The weather was marvelous, so we agreed to go out last Friday, the beginning of Labor Day weekend. We arrived at Dolly Sods Wilderness around eleven-thirty in the morning after a long dusty ride up the rough mountain road. The clouds were just breaking up on the plateau, allowing a clear view of the mountains to the east from the panoramic overlook at the entrance. It was windy and chilly, probably in the mid fifties, and I put on my lightweight raincoat for an extra layer of warmth.

 

Goldenrod and Jewelweed at the Wilderness Trailhead.

 

We drove down to the picnic area and had our lunch there, parking my friend's car, then drove back up to the Wildlife Trailhead in my car. There were lovely wildflowers everywhere, a hint of fall showing in the foliage and flowers.

We hadn't gone more than forty or fifty paces into the forest when a ray of sunlight highlighted a whitish fungal growth up on a tree trunk... it was Lion's Mane mushroom! Thank heaven my friend is an expert forager, and had her forage bag with her. She found a stick long enough to reach the Lion's Mane and coaxed it down. If we could find a few more, we'd have a tasty supper.

 

Lion's Mane mushroom

 

We started looking around more closely--and more mushrooms began to crop up. A group of large polypore-looking mushrooms was scattered upon the forest floor. We picked a sample for later identification, not sure of its edibility. I think they may be Hedgehog mushrooms (Hydnum repandem) which are considered edible.

 

Hedgehog mushrooms (Hydnum repandem)

Closer look at Hedgehog mushroom.

 

The trail was impossibly muddy in places, indicating that the summer rains had been plentiful. To make matters worse, a group of horseback riders had ridden on the trail recently, and their tracks made our going more like an obstacle course.

Although it had been dry for the past couple of weeks in our area, it's obvious this plateau gets a lot more rainfall than our area of Virginia. The Allegheny Front forms part of the Eastern Continental Divide, with the western side draining into the Mississippi River Basin, while the eastern side drains into the Atlantic, the Chesapeake Bay specifically.

 

Violet-stemmed mushroom (Laccaria ochropurpurea?)

 

The quantity and variety of fungi in this forest was amazing: lots of Polypores were growing on fallen and standing tree trunks: Turkeytails, and False Turkeytails, but the Horseshoe conks on this tree (Fomes fomentarius) were unusual. 

 

Horseshoe conks (Fomes fomentarius)

Coral fungi (Clavulina coralloides?

This high-elevation forest is botanically rich in many unusual plants such as club mosses, known as ground cedar (Diphasiastrum complanatum), ground pine (Lycopodium obscurum), ferns, as well as many plants more likely to be found in New England and eastern Canada, such as red spruce and birch. We spotted and harvested more Lion's Mane, one specimen high up on a trunk required a large branch to bring it down.

 

Lady Ferns and Ground Cedar.

 

A big tree with a unusual seed pods caught my eye, and on closer examination turned out to be a huge Cucumber magnolia (Magnolia acuminata). A group of several large Mountain ashes in fruit brought seasonal color to the late summer forest.

 

Cucumber magnolia with ripening seedpods (Magnolia acuminata).

Mountain ash trees in fruit (Sorbus aucuparia)

Beechdrops, a parasitic plant that feeds on the roots of Beech Trees, were still flowering, if a bit past it. We also collected a bit of Chaga mushroom on a trunk--these black fungi look like burn scars and associate only with Birch trees. They have medicinal properties and are used in Russian folk medicine to treat a variety of conditions.

 

Beechdrops (Epifagus virginiana)

 

Chaga mushroom (Inonotus oblicuus)

Everywhere we turned, there were different kinds of mushrooms. A piece of greenish spalted wood on the ground gave evidence that Green Elf Cups (Chlorociboria aeruginacens) had at one time colonized it--the elf cups are a rare sight. All these mushrooms and we had barely covered a mile! No wonder we were walking so slowly, it takes time to take it all in!

 

A mushroom with Volva--an Amanita? 

 

Spalted wood indicates Green Elf Cup colonization.

Yellow Waxy Cap mushrooms (Hygrocybe flavecens)

Eventually we came to the first of the sods--the season was too advanced to see many butterflies, but there were a few Great Spangled Fritillaries on the goldenrod and thistles. I remembered these meadows buzzing with countless butterflies and bees when Herb and I visited so many years ago, but that was in early August, at the height of summer, and now it was getting on toward fall.

 

The first of the sods.

 

Great Spangled Fritillary on Thistle

We reentered the forest, finding yet more mushrooms we couldn't identify.

 

On the Wildlife Trail.

Cluster of brown mushrooms.

To be continued in Part 2.