Chilling in the Bruce, Part 6

Flowerpot Island

Thursday was to be the best day weather-wise, according to the predictions, so we had chosen this as the day to visit Flowerpot Island, a short ride across the lake. The predictions were correct as it turned out, the morning was bright and sunny, with no wind. The hotel agreed to serve our breakfast early today, so that we could make the one-hour drive to the town of Tobermory in time for the 9:30 AM ferry.

Great Blue Heron ferries in Tobermory.

Several ferries make regular trips to Flowerpot Island and the surrounding islands during the summer season. We boarded the Blue Heron VIII at 9:15 AM and got underway at 9:30 sharp. The ferry cruised around Tub Harbor slowly to show us one of several shipwrecks that can be seen through the crystalline blue waters of the harbor. There are many other shipwrecks in the Fathom Five Marine National Park which surrounds these islands. There was a lighthouse at the entrance of the harbor, and another lighthouse on an island not far off shore.

Lighthouse on Tub Harbor

Shipwreck in Tub Harbor

A closer look at the sunken ship in Tub Harbor

After that our boat left the harbor to take us past a number of small islands. I was glad to have heeded the advice to wear every layer I had brought with me for the boat ride--the moment the boat sped out into open water, the wind chill on the deck was hair-raising--but the upper deck had the best seats in the house!

Islands near Tobermory

Approaching Flowerpot Island

The formations on Flowerpot Island

After cruising past a few other islands, Flowerpot Island appeared into view--the "flowerpot" formations are on the eastern side of the island, and our boat approached from the other side cruising past the big flowerpot and then the little flowerpot to moor in a small man-made harbor where we were dropped off.

Our return tickets were for 2:30 PM and we agreed to meet back at the dock by 2:15--about four hours to take a look around and have lunch. Fortunately, there were only a few trails, and the Calypso orchids we were hoping to see were found on the Marl trail.

Plaque at Flowerpot Island.

We started out and right off the trail, came across several plants of the western rattlesnake plantain orchid (Goodyera menziesii) by its side, but with no flower spikes--the flowers wouldn't appear until mid-July. Along this trail we saw shining club moss, and several spikes of striped coral root orchid (Corallorhiza striata), an orchid I'd never seen before.

Rattlesnake plantain (Goodyear menziensii or M. oblongifolia)

Shining club moss (Huperzia lucidula)

Striped coral root (Corallorhiza striata)

Detail of the striped coral root flower.

Several of the group split up to continue up the trail while our botanists were keying in information to identify a plant which was finally determined to be a spiny swamp currant (Ribes lacustris). Along the ground I saw emerging plants of bunchberry (Cornus canadensis) and twinflower (Linnaea borealis), but again with no flowers. Quite a number of snakes were sunning themselves, enjoying the warmth of the day.

Black snake

Yellow-striped garden snake

Bunchberry and twinflower on the ground.

I met others from the group walking back towards us, excited that Larry had found a couple of Calypso orchids in the woods up ahead. I went forward trying to locate the spot, and luckily found another of our group marking the precise spot. It was surprising to see how tiny the orchids were--the plants were no larger than an ordinary violet! But what they lack in size they certainly make up for in charm.

Calypso orchid (Calypso bulbosa)

Another view of the Calypso orchid

View of Calypso orchid next to a tree trunk.

The shot just above gives a good idea of the actual size of this tiny and rare orchid. We also saw another unusual small plant, goldthread (Coptis trifolia), with a white flower--the roots have the appearance of yellow threads, hence the common name.

Goldthread (Coptis trifolia)

After sighting the Calypso orchids I continued on the Marl trail to look at a large pond where I saw a number of water snakes. The trail ended at a rocky beach, where I found another lady from our group eating her lunch--it was the perfect spot for it, so I joined her and we enjoyed the view towards Tobermory. We saw a much larger ferry crossing right in front of our shingle beach and I guessed that this must be the ferry taking cars & passengers across the lake to Manitoulin Island.

The view from our lunch spot.

Time was passing much too fast, and before we knew it, it was close to two o'clock--time to hurry back to the dock to rejoin the rest of the group. We made it back just in time to board the ferry and learn that the rest of the group had backtracked to get a closer view of the flowerpots, which I would have liked to see close-up, but our lunch spot had been so peaceful and lovely, it didn't matter.

Caves carved by the waves on Flowerpot Island.

Some of the caves carved by the waves were visible as we pulled out of the harbor on the return trip. The ride back to Tobermory was more direct, faster and warmer than the trip going out, the temperature had risen to be very summer-like. It was still early afternoon, and we decided to stay for a while to explore the town.

Art gallery in Tobermory.

A quick glance revealed two art galleries across the quay, I walked over to check them out. The first one was nondescript on the outside, with some beautiful high-end Raku pottery and a lot of touristy items. The second gallery was more what I consider a real art gallery, with an appealing garden in front--the owner was obviously an artist himself, and had his easel with a half-finished painting on it by the cash register. There were many reproductions and some original paintings, much too expensive for me. I found a case with some fascinating soapstone sculptures by Inuit carvers that were reasonably priced, so I decided to buy one to bring back for Herb as a souvenir. I think the owner was pleased, it was probably his only sale for the day--it being early in the season, our group seemed to be just about the only tourists in town.

On the drive back I saw a gas station that was open (not a frequent sight here) and since my tank was getting low, I stopped to fill up. The owner was quite surprised when he saw my Virginia license plates--he probably didn't get drivers from this far away very often. When I paid, I told him it had been many years since I'd seen a full-serve gas station.

Weekend at Mountain Lake Station, Part I

Yellow pinesap (Monotropa hypopitys)

VNPS had announced a weekend at UVA's Mountain Lake Biological Station in southwestern Virginia at the end of July but the excursion was limited to a baker's dozen in number. Not sure that I'd be able to get one of those slots or keep up with their strenuous hiking schedule, I reserved accommodations for myself the weekend before. I figured that the orchid I was hoping to see, the Coral Root Orchid (Corallorhiza maculata) would be in bloom then, as well as other interesting plants. Being by myself, I would have time to sketch and set my own pace.

This remote mountain area is noted for its rich diversity of flora and fauna, some quite unique. The lake itself,  Mountain Lake, also called Salt Pond, is most unusual: unchanged for the most part of last century, a hotel resort had been built on its shore (the 1980's movie Dirty Dancing was filmed here in part). The spring-fed lake's water level began to drop precipitously in the early 2000's and drained completely. Fissures in the bedrock were found, and geological studies revealed that the lake actually has drained periodically, and fills up again. The lake has now returned to about half its volume.

I left on Friday at mid-morning for the three and a half hour drive down the scenic Shenandoah Valley. I was timing my arrival at the station for the afternoon check-in. This would allow enough time to stop along the way at near-by Pandapas Pond, a place I'd read about where another plant I was seeking could be found. Yellow pinesap (Monotropa hypopitys,) a member of the fascinating Monotropa family that I'd never seen, blooms at this time of the year, and I hoped to get photos for my illustrations.

Pandapas Pond

It was about one o'clock when I took the exit towards Blacksburg. The sign for Pandapas Pond was so inconspicuous that I almost missed the turn, but just managed to make the quick left. I parked towards the end of the last lot, and sat on a bench to enjoy my lunch in the company of a goldfinch browsing some thistles.

After putting my trash back in the car I was weighing which of the two trails to take when another car pulled up. An older lady with a mesh bag in her hand got out and was starting up the forest trail when I asked her what she intended to collect. Judging by her accent, she was local, and she was looking for edible mushrooms, something she called "swamp mushrooms." She told me she didn't have much time before her church service. I asked if she'd ever seen pinesap in the area and she responded no, but that I should look at the site of fallen trees, particularly pines.

I followed her at a respectful distance until she vanished from sight. I came across some Indian pipe and encouraged by this, went off-trail to look for pinesap. I didn't find any and continued up the trail which ended at a beautiful flower garden. The terrain here didn't look particularly promising, so I turned back to try the pond trail. On the way back I saw the old lady deep in the woods, bending over something--she must have found what she was looking for.

Fungi on the pond trail

The pond trail wound around a small hill covered with old pine trees; I climbed up the steep bank to look under them and saw the ground was covered with fungi and mosses, but no pinesap. I went back down and scouted around the pond, but the sandy soil there was not particularly promising either. I was almost back at parking lot, about to give up my search, when I happened to glance up at the steep bank now on my right. There it was--a tiny shoot of Yellow pinesap emerging from the mossy ground! I scurried up and discovered several more pristine stalks to photograph.

Yellow Pinesap.

Having accomplished one goal, I continued on my journey. Heading west the hills became steeper and traffic thinner. At the turn-off for Mountain Lake Lodge the two-lane road went through an area of rural properties and then started climbing steadily, becoming steeper and steeper with every curve.

Power lines at Mountain Lake

The forest canopy was thick until I reached this point where overhead power lines cut through. I couldn't resist the amazing vista that opened up, and pulled over to take this photo. The freshness of the mountain air took my breath away as much as the panorama--it was perceptibly cooler here than on the valley floor. This had to be at around 3,000 feet elevation.

I reached the lodge and asked some hotel attendants at the parking lot where the road to the Biological Station continued. They directed me to the left of the lodge, past the pool and some outbuildings. The paving ended a few miles later and the road became gravel. A few deep ruts here and there gave an indication of what the downpours in these mountains must be like.

After a few more miles the sign for the Biological Station appeared--I drove past some rustic cottages and buildings and parked at the main lot, looking for the building with the registration office. I was directed to Lewis, a two-story stone building to my left. I checked in at the office and received my information packet--I talked briefly with the young lady there about my pursuits and Jamie marked the locations of several stands of Coral Root and other orchids on the station map. One stand was right outside of this building. Another hand-out showed the trails around the station, and she marked those for me as well.

I'd been assigned one of the cottages, Burns, which turned out to have a small fenced-in garden surrounding it. I was cautioned to never leave the gate open, as the deer here were extremely voracious. After getting my gear and settling in, I went out with my camera to explore my surroundings.

The Burns Cottage and garden.

The cottage garden had been lovingly landscaped with all sorts of native plants in a charming arrangement, and conveniently labeled. There were Turk's cap lilies (Lilium superbum) and red and white bee balm (Monarda) blooming. A number of ferns, among them a huge variety of Osmunda (Osmunda spectabilis) which I had never seen before, and a rare trillium, Trillium sulcatum, with a peculiar maroon fruit (my photo of this didn't turn out well).

Turk's Cap Lily (Lilium superbum)

Osmunda spectabilis.

Burns Cottage garden.

After that, I went out to explore the rest of the station. The campus consisted of a series of small cottages and a few larger building arranged around an open grassy area, with the dining hall at one end and Lewis at the other end, and a pond and the large new lab building to the south.

There were three Coral root orchids by Lewis, three small flowering stalks under the oak trees, the flowers not yet open. I walked down the green towards the other area where Jamie had indicated more of these, and found two huge clumps near another cottage. These were better developed but the stalks seemed older, with some flowers clearly past their prime. Still, very exciting to see so many of them!

Coral Root Orchid (Corallorhiza maculata)

I checked out the purple fringed orchids by another cottage; they had been fertilized and were developing seed pods. Looking for other orchids, I entered an area where an old swimming pool had been--pieces of concrete slabs and piers remained in place. The ground here was spongy, lushly covered with several varieties of mosses, among them on that looked like miniature fern fronds. Here was Indian pipe and farther down, another orchid, Rattlesnake Plantain (Goodyera pubescens) with several flowering stalks.

Beautiful fern moss (Thuidium delicatum?)

Indian Pipe (Monotropa uniflora)

Rattlesnake Plantain (Goodyera pubescens)

What great finds! This would help me plan where to start sketching tomorrow morning.

The first dinner bell rang out as I was heading back to my cabin. I dropped off my camera quickly and headed back to the dining hall--I'd been warned the hungry hordes would claim every bite if one was late. There was a small kitchenette in my cabin with a refrigerator, but since I didn't know that in advance, I hadn't thought to bring any snacks, only some wine and my favorite teas.

After dinner I walked around again, enjoying the cool evening and the last of the light lingering on the pond. I came across a gentleman on a cottage deck readying some plant specimens for pressing and talked to him for a bit. Dr. Mark Whitten told me he and his assistant, a young Chinese man by the endearing name of Miao, were here to collect specimens for a project comparing the DNA of eastern North American plants with their counterparts in northeastern China. It's believed that these plants share a common ancestry from a time before the continents began to drift apart, and this project may add valuable information to prevailing theories.

After that it was time for an evening read, and then to bed. I'd brought a light wool blanket with all my linens, since MLBS warns that the night temperatures can drop into the upper fifties even in summer, but even then I wasn't prepared for just how cold it got. I couldn't get to sleep, and wished I'd brought an extra blanket. After closing all the windows and putting a sweater on, I was still too cold to sleep. Eventually I spread all the extra clothes I had with me over the blanket and managed to get warm enough to drift off, but it was one AM by then.

Next: Sketching Orchids, a hike to Bear Cliffs and more.

Yellow Fringed and Other Orchids in Fort Valley

Yellow Fringed Orchid (Platanthera ciliaris).

A month after the VNPS walk in Fort Valley I returned to see how the Yellow Fringed Orchids were doing. This lovely native is high on my list of plants to illustrate for the year, and it's great to not have to travel far to gather visual material for my sketches.

It was a very hot and humid afternoon, and I was glad to enter the shady forest cover. I recognized the first orchid I spotted as the one I'd seen in bud a month earlier, but the spike of this specimen was not in the best condition: small, with some of the flowers blighted. I looked around for more and found several others growing by the small pond.

The buds were showing color, but the flowers weren't open yet, so I looked further afield. Some ten feet beyond the first orchid I saw another deeper in the woods with its flowers open--a much more appealing specimen. As I was skirting around the undergrowth to reach it, I happened to look down, and right by my feet, the distinctive leaves of another orchid appeared.

                                    Leaves and flower stalk of Pink Lady Slipper orchids (Cypripedium acaule) with Indian Cucumber plant (five leaflets) to the right.

Some of the plants had a couple of old flowering stalks (the flowers long past), and by the shape of the leaves, could be none other than the Pink Lady Slipper orchid--what a great find! I'll make it a point to return next spring to check out the blooms. Prospecting around I found a few more plants, as well as another type of native orchid, the Rattlesnake Plantain, named for the distinctive markings of its leaves.

Rattlesnake Plantain orchid (Goodyera pubescens)

There were several of these, one with a tiny emerging flowering spike and another with a large dried seed spike. These other two orchids had not been mentioned during our plant walk a month earlier. I wondered if the VNPS folks didn't know about these other natives growing here, or if they preferred to keep the locations secret, since these are rare species, as is the Yellow Fringed Orchid. I feel so lucky to live near to these unusual and fascinating plants that provide inspiration for my paintings. There's so much here in Virginia for a botanical illustrator!